“Corneobiology refers to that broad range of experimental studies that are focused on the anatomy, physiology and biology of the stratum corneum… However, it was not until the latter half of the 20th century that the stratum corneum began to be viewed as of the viable tissues, featuring the special functions of preventing diffusional water loss against a hostile, desiccating environment and limiting the penetration of exogenous, toxic chemicals with antigens.
… an historical account of the evolution, one might say revolution, regarding the new appreciation of the horny layer as having multiple, dynamic functions” set out in a treatise entitled ‘How the dead stratum corneum became alive’ by Albert Montgomery Kligman.
Albert Montgomery Kligman, Professor of Dermatology, University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine, author of hundreds of papers, which were the scientific basis of dermatology.
Dr. Kligman was first to describe the human hair-growth cycle, investigated the pathogenesis and treatment of acne, athlete foot and dandruff, disproved the “common knowledge” that chocolate promotes acne, identified the effects of sunlight on the skin.
Many studies have been conducted by Professor Albert M. Kligman at the intersection of science, resulting in cosmetology and medicine appear such terms as “photoaging” and “corneotherapy”.
At the base of Corneotherapy, the need to protect and to restore the stratum corneum, the destruction of which leads to the appearance of skin diseases, allergies, infections, dehydration and dryness. Stratum corneum is the outermost of the layers of the epidermis and is largely responsible for the vital barrier function of the skin.
For the first time demonstrated that the stratum corneum is not a conglomeration of “dead” cells but is a “living” structure that is capable of self-regulation and interaction with other layers of the epidermis and dermis.
Corneotherapy refers to preventive interventions that are primarily directed to the correction and restoration of the stratum corneum barrier that has been rendered defective and impaired by disease, genetics and a variety of mechanical, physical, chemical and psychological exogenous insults and stresses.
“Invariable and characteristic features of defective horny layer are marked increases in diffusional TEWL ( Transepidermal Water Loss) to a hostile desiccating environment, a decreased capacity to take up and retain sufficient water to maintain a supple, soft, resilient, smooth horny layer and a host of structural imperfections, which degrade the ability of the horny layer to carry out its multiple and diverse protective functions.”
Studies have shown that the epidermis is able to cleave the lipids that cosmetics contains and use the resulting fragments to restore the skin’s lipid barrier. The renewal process of epithelial cells is 28-30 days, in some cases even more. It is important to ensure the normal course of the process of cell renewal.
The skin gets its moisture from “inside”, by the diffusion of fluid from the capillaries, as the stratum corneum prevents the penetration of water from the “outside”. Maintenance of the necessary moisture in all layers of the skin, the skin barrier function performance – the result of metabolic processes in the epidermal layer.
The fact that cosmetics can influence on the processes of the uppers layers of the skin, places high demands on its composition. Cosmetics should help maintain the protective barrier of the skin, supplying essential for restore components, to protect against negative environmental influences.
The principle of Outside-in-Therapy works: restoration of the structure and functions of the stratum corneum leads to the normalization of physiological processes in the deep layers of the skin. This principle is the basis for the creation of natural cosmetics Tevi Care.
“Actually, corneotherapy has been practiced unwittingly by dermatologists from the earliest times encompassing different approaches and basically targeting defective horny layers ranging from traditional ancient approaches…”Professor Albert M. Kligman
1 .A. M. Kligman
Corneobiology and Corneotherapy – a final chapter
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Volume 33, Issue 3, June 2011
2. John R Stanley, Associate Editor
Albert M. Kligman: 90 Years Old on March 17, 2006
Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2006) 126, 697–698.